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Lake Champlain

Lake Champlain@0.5x.jpg

The map pictured here has a long title: A Survey of Lake Champlain, including Lake George, Crown Point and St. John. Surveyed by Order of His Excellency Major-General Sr. Jeffery Amherst, Knight of the most Honble. Order of the Bath, Commander in Chief of His Majesty's Forces in North America, (now Lord Amherst) by William Brassier, Draughtsman. (with) A Particular Plan of Lake George. Surveyed in 1756. By Capt. Jackson. London: Printed for Robt. Sayer & Jno. Bennett ... Augst. 5th 1776. The map shows much of the Champlain Valley and its waterways, and was created for officers of the British Army as a “holster atlas” they carried with them in the field.

At a time when there were very few roads in North America, waterways had a critical economic and strategic importance. The first date here, 1756, places the map survey amidst the French and Indian War, when England and its rival France were campaigning for territorial control of the continent. The Battle of Lake George was one of its important actions, leaving in its wake several forts in the Champlain Valley to control the movement of troops and supplies. Important events and strategic locations from that period are literally written on the map’s terrain (you can view a high resolution file by following this hyperlink). The second date, of course, locates publication of this map to the American Revolution, which would see a naval battle fought on the Lake Champlain along with several on land. The same was true during the War of 1812.

But perhaps this military history feels too specialized and remote. For a starting point, it’s enough to recognize the sheer scale of the Lake Champlain watershed—more than 8,000 square miles—and how it encompasses the states of New York and Vermont, along with a portion of Quebec. About three-quarters of this land consists of forests. Today the strategic importance of inland waters has less to do with military campaigns than as a scarce commodity amidst global drought. Attempts to privatize or even rechannel freshwater supplies already have been occurring for several decades. Exceeded in size only by the Great Lakes in the United States, Champlain is located in a biodiverse and relatively remote area that once again may become an area of conflict.

From the Gazetteer: "[The town of Champlain] was formed March 7, 1788....Its surface is generally level, with a gentle slope toward the lake. The crest of a swell of land between Champlain Village and Rouses Point is about 200 feet above the lake. Great Chazy or Champlain River flows in a tortuous course through the town and discharges its waters into Kings Bay....Chazy was formed from Champlain, March 20, 1804.... The principal stream is the Little Chazy, flowing N. E. through near the center As might be supposed, in the Latitude of 45°, the climate is cold, and the winters long and severe; but there is usually 1 to 2, and even 3 or 4 feet of snow, which covers the earth for 5 months, and sometimes 6 in succession. Apples, pears, and plums of several kinds, flourish here, and good meadows yield from 1 to 2 tons of hay on an average. The principal trade is with Canada, by the river Sorel, and in winter by sleighs, which pass to Montreal in 2 days" (French 236-237; Spafford 157). Major Tributaries: Ausable River, Saranac River, Great Chazy River. Major Lakes: Lake George, Upper Saranac Lake, Lower Saranac Lake, Lake Placid. Highest Point: Mount Haystack (4,960 ft). Area: 3,050 square miles within New York state.

Stephen Chalmers, "Resurrection" (1912)

Born in Scotland, the writer of this poem arrived in the Adirondacks as the result of a literary pilgrimage. Like many other readers of the late 19th century, the object of Chalmers’ admiration was his countryman Robert Louis Stevenson—one of the best-known writers of his day through novels like Treasure Island and Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde, along with more philosophical essays. Steveneson had chronic lung problems and spent 1886-87 in treatment at a sanatorium located in Saranac Lake. Chalmers was one of many curators for his hero’s subsequent reputation, but he also was a perceptive writer in his own right. This poem describes the Adirondacks in springtime, returning to life after that region’s devastating winters. What are some of the natural events he’s describing? Who (or what) is Flora?

The air is still.
The edge of Winter's blade
Is turned by long, hard use.
The brown earth, fallowed rich,
Breaks through the melting snows.
The mountain stream
Chants a high anthem from a bubbling heart.
 
The gray-haired skies
Regain the smooth-browed calm
Of blue-eyed youth.
The trees, still bare,
Yet breathe maternal mystery,
And whisper to the eager-asking birds
A secret prescience. And but last night
A cricket stirred.
And shrilled its bell-like song across the world.
Now Flora walks abroad.
Her fertile tread
Leaving a magic imprint on the mould;
And who have eyes
May see her as she passes o’er the grass.
Her breath is balm,
Her gaze compassionate warmth;
Her finger-tips drip myrrh,
And everything that senses her approach<
Thrills with the joy of resurrected hope
 
It is the birthday of the world.
Old earth,
So long despairing, wakes from lethargy.
Renewing faith the cynic, Winter, jeered
Life is Immortal!

 

David Johnson, Harbor Island, Lake George, NY (1871). Very near the headwaters of the Lake Champlain watershed lies this large spring-fed lake, more than 30 miles in length and in some ways better known than its much larger neighbor. This is because, during the 19th century, dozens of famous artists journeyed there to paint its scenery—and those canvases were popular with the wealthy families who summered in Lake George. Johnson takes a different approach than his peers with this painting, not attempting to encompass vast expanses of the lake but rather a passage between two of its islands. We’re probably looking northeast to the Tongue Mountain Range and in particular Brown Mountain. What elements of scenery can you list in Johnson’s painting? It appears that rain droplets are falling on the water here...what does that tell us about the mostly clear sky overhead? What can we infer about the water’s color in the foreground and a line of bluer water in the distance?

Works Consulted

—Chalmers, Stephen. “Resurrection.” 1912. The Gilding Star (Saranac Lake News Print, 1916): 36-37. Web version available at Internet Archive.

—French, J. H. Gazeteer of the State of New York. Ira J. Friedman, 1860.

—Spafford, Horatio Gates. A Gazetteer of the State of New York. H.C. Southwick, 1813.